What the hell are you raving about?

: I HATE THIS THING! IT IS A VIRUS!! IF YOU DO NOT PAY, IT WON'T LET YOU OPEN UP *ANY* MIDIS AT ALL, EVEN AFTER YOU HAVE DELETED THE GODDAMN THING!!!! >:O >:O

: >:( THIS THING SUCKS SERIoUS ASS!!!!!!!!!

Erasure? Depeche Mode? Lightning Seeds? Electronic? Pet Shop Boys? Bernard Sumner? The Cure? I'd place my bets on a song by Erasure or Electronic.

You should go to a gothic chat room or a chat room for people who like the Smiths (Morrissey). Seems like people who like New Order always like Morrissey and/or the Cure. Whatever the song is, it sounds really *gay*. And I mean that in the 1940's sense of the word. Hahahaha.

A lot of these kinds of noise issues are due to using equipment that isn't designed to be low-noise. In other words, it sounds like you are hosed. The following suggestions, therefore, probably won't help any. Although I am not an electrical engineer, I have some ideas. I suggest #8 the most.

1) make sure all your devices are connected to the same grounded power outlet (not any others in the room)

2) use XLR connections only. XLR cable connections are inherently designed to reduce line noise. This probably won't work because not many soundcards have XLR connectors, and car stereos NEVER have them.

3) Turn off your refrigerator/microwave/air-conditioner/dehumidifier/washer/dryer. These big electrical devices typically dirty up the electrical circuitry of a house

4) Keep all of your powercords away from each other and anything else electrical. Electrical interference is often due to overlapping electromagnetic or electrostatic fields. The further away, the less noise. Tangled wires will usually be noisier than untangled wires. Especially around a computer.

5) Don't touch the heatsink. The amplifier heatsink may or may not be grounded. I'm not sure, because car stereos don't use AC, but use DC. Either way, it probably is, but it's grounding is bound to differ from the computer's ground, and the soundcard's ground. I would suggest connecting the computer chassis to the amplifier chassis, but since both of these devices probably generate tons of their own noise, it probably would only make the problem worse. Still, maybe it's worth a try.

6) Try putting your soundcard into a different PCI slot. Maybe the current slot is too close to another noisy component.

7) Turn off your flouresscent lights and dimmer switched lights. These are inherently electrically noisy.

8) Stop using your car amp, and just buy some long cables or move your stereo. All electrical devices and cables generate electrical noise. This is the result of physics.

9) Try using another brand of cables. Keep channels on separate wires. Sometimes poorly shielded or separated stereo cabling causes noisiness. This can happen especially when you are trying to use too many audio signal adapters.

Run that query is Teoma and see what you come up with, that search engine is the best by far.

There is a mac program that uses the mouse, but I couldn't get it to work properly on mine. Your project sounds really cool, though. You should get a PC kit called ANALOG BOX. It's freeware, and allows you to make a little kit of components. Since it works with plug-ins, you might be able to create a mouse-related component that modulates an audio component. It's kinda like Turbosynth on the mac. That's all i remember for now.

You should also check out the Virtual Audio Cable. That will help you route audio signals to and from your soundcard with fewer hassles. It's basically a signal splitter that bypasses ASIO, DirectX, and Windows sound, in order to provide some extra sound drivers that are a bit more flexible. You can use Virtual Audio Cable to route audio from a playback program to a recording program. This is nice for mean shareware that doesn't let you record until you register. This may sound unethical, but why should I trust a demo program that won't let me try it's main feature ????!!? that's ridiculous.

1)<b>A lesser known issue is that of continuous midi controllers such as pitch bend and modulation. These are the few midi commands which can overwhelm ANY midi setup. If you do a lot of pitchbending effects or panning or modulation or whatever using a wheel or knob, then you are adding TONS more information to the MIDI stream. Since these are continuous controllers, their information is instantaneous and powerful and comes in big gulps. Since the Electribe series is known for it's sequencable knob-twiddling... i'll bet it's transmitting a bunch of continuous controller data for your filters or whatever. Sorry dude. </b>

2) Also, make sure that the slave device is set to recieve full MIDI timecode or MIDI clock *AND* SPP (Song Position Pointer). It sounds like your slave device is getting at least the START command, and maybe even a BPM command, but nothing else. This could be the case if it shifts out of sync and never catches back up.

3) Another problem could be that one or both of the machines is overheating. Timing circuits are guaranteed to be inaccurate when overheated.

4) Some devices (most) use inaccurate BPM's, especially hardware devices. This is one advantage of computer sequencing. A GOOD computer MIDI program can calculate a BPM to at least 3 decimal places (87.272 BPM). Lots of programs CLAIM to be able to sync up BPMs, but if they can't deal with this kind of precision, the errors will be audible. Old MIDI gear usually starts to have trouble first, because the capacitors and resistors wear out.

5) Computers have trouble with this because of errors and bad math coprocessor chips. This was a specific PC defect that was VERY common a few years ago. I imagine that it's still a problem for many. Recently I experienced similar math-rounding errors on a PowerPC mac while running some old 68K (Mac SE) software.

6) Another kind of trouble could be if you are using USB as a MIDI connection. USB is NOT the way to go for audio. Too many other devices are adding their own data to the stream.

7) I had a friend who used to have sync problems with his computer. He cleverly discovered that the burden on the computer's CPU for processing MIDI and audio and other commands was enough to slow it down noticeably.

8) I would keep trying. Check to make sure that you haven't created a MIDI feedback loop, which is bad. That can happen if you have MIDI going to and from the same device with or without another device.

9) Another issue could be other system control panels, programs, extensions, TSR's, control strip modules, taskbar helpers, taskbar applications, etc.

10) If you have a PC, be sure to totally turn off and remove the task scheduler. This dumb program is almost always turned on, and hardly ever does it's job. It ALWAYS slows down a system. Also, be sure that you've turned off application logging via the application compression settings in the disk defragmenter. Typically, disk defragmenting set to optimize applications doesn't really work that well, and requires every single read or write command to be logged. This, of course, is HELL for your system, so you'd better turn it off and delete the APPLOG folder in your Windows system folder.

There is actually a registry hack that works really well by just finding the entry for Taskmonitor.exe (or whatever it is) and replacing it with a harmless program such as Memory max. That way, instead of permanently slowing your computer down at startup, it will speed it up!

You will have to do some tricky research on this. I unfortunately don't have a pc any longer, so I can't help you much more with this. Sorry. Then again, you might have a mac.

11) Make sure you turn off virtual memory, and reduce the virtual memory cache file size to 0 (zero). It's great if you can successfully delete it and keep it set to zero. On a mac, you can delete the VM file as soon as you set it's SYSTEM attribute to false. This can be done using freeware DiskTop. Deleting the VM file using a security eraser is a nice privacy increase also, since virtual memory files are notorious for security breaches via file recovery. Etc. Etc. blah blah blah.

12) Too many powerful plug-ins. Both Virtual instruments and virtual effects require both RAM and intensive processor attention (intensive CPU-time). Sometimes, just one really powerful plug-in (such as FFT-related spectral shifting) is all it takes to bog down a system.

13) Since you are dealing with a resource shortage with no real solution other than buying more ram or upgrading your processor, you need to make sacrifices. If you have already purged your system of unneeded junk, another trick is to turn down your monitor resolution to 256 instead of truecolor (24 or 32 bits). You can gain even more megabytes by shrinking the monitor window size to something tiny link 680x320. This is the kind of harmless, impermanent sacrifice that I like, because it always yields actual results. On some systems, even turning off the AGP or whatever graphics accellerator helps a lot. If you use your computer to do audio and not a lot of video gaming or 3D graphics or texture mapping, then this will be an improvement for you. This is why I'm always talking about turning shit off. If you don't use it, DONT USE IT!!!! Kinda like the shared printer on a mac. When the hell are ya gonna share your printer over a network???? Fuck that! Turn it off, throw it away, GET RID OF THE RAM LEECHES!!!

I just hope i've said something useful.
I wish you the best of luck.

Be sure to check out these links:

<A HREF="http://www.sospubs.co.uk/sos/mar01/articles/pcmusician.asp">About Audio/MIDI Latency</A>

<A HREF="http://www.hitsquad.com/smm/wwwboard/messages/68459.html">Perhaps a clue</A>

: Romeo is my man and anybody that say's he's not is wrong I can make sure you know that .Exspiacally you bittney Jones!!!

Either convert the WAVs to MP3. Or get a program that burns the MP3s as is. You'll find a few free downloads in the <a href="http://www.hitsquad.com/smm/cat/CD_BURNERS/">CD Burning</a> section of this site.

: i was in quirerig 'bout this i have easy cd creator and every time i choose a song or file to down load and burn on the cd a message pops up saying that it has to be a .wav. file i would like to know how to change that or what i can do so i can actually burn cd and use this so called easy cd creator.
: thanx
: Jennifer

http://www.karaokeplayground.co.uk/help/help.htm

Off of the top of my head, as freeware... SetItsType, SoundApp and SoundHack are a good starting place. If you change a file to type FSSD, creator SCPL, SoundApp will play it--regardless of the original file type. You will need SetItsType to do this quickly. It's freeware and about 100K big.

The file type FSSD corresponds to SoundEdit 1.0 format, which is merely the data fork of a file (not the resource fork--icons, fonts, etc) This format treats data as unsigned 8-bit sound sample data.

SoundHack provides a more controlled manner of reading in raw files and playing them because it has a neat header changing function.

SoundApp is freeware that can play and convert just about anything. It works better if you have SetItsType because you can force it to try harder. Be sure to read SoundApp's built-in help file (About SoundApp...) because it holds extensive information about file formats in an easy to read glossary.

You will need to learn an easy little bit about binary numbers and sample formats if you need serious and accurate results. It can be a little confusing if you aren't already familiar with unsigned and signed, integers, mantissas, floats, doubles, twos complement, and ones complement.

Another good source of information is the the built-in help of the PC program DDClip. As a 96kHz 24-32bit program, it has extra information about different 24 and 32 bit formats. It can also write AIFF files. CoolEdit is another PC program that deals with 24 and 32bit varieties of sample formats and has some interesting help files built-in. There are free/demo versions of both of these, and their creators are friendly, knowledgeable people.

Another point of interest would be C-Sound. C-Sound is a collegiate programming package designed to be an audio programming language. For sure, you could do it in C-Sound if you know C+(+) programming.

Good luck

If you are using a PC, try searching your hard drive for the DirectX Diagnoser (or something like that ... maybe it's the DirectX Diagnositic ... i forget the name. Anyway the actual program might be called Dx.exe or something like that.

If you can search for application programs (.EXE) files containing the word (DirectX) then you can run ... oh wait!!! I just remembered a file called:

DSSETUP.EXE
I think it's the DirectSound Setup application.

Anyhow... there is a program for DirectX/DirectSound that comes with Cubase that is used to test the DirectX/DirectSound drivers and configurations. This is what you want to find and launch. If I was on my old pc, I could tell you for sure, but I sold my pc half a year ago.

I hope this provides at least a clue or two.