If it's anything like my in-car Kenwood MP3 player, the 2-second gap isn't down to how the disc was recorded, but how the player itself works. It may be worthwhile checking with the manufacturer to see if this is the case, otherwise, as you say, the only way is to make one looooonnnnng MP3, losing track access in the process.

Andy

I need a sound-proofed drum room, a pro-sized pool table and bar for me and my mates. So what's your point?

No message

Total Recorder might be worth a look. It records anything that passes through your sound card, but I think it'll only record for 15 minutes max (which should be enough).

The link should be in the software section under audio recorders. Otherwise, try Yahoo.

Andy

You can do that. Just look in this forum for the answer because it gets asked regularly. Secondly, try searching for 'cassette' on the <a href="http://www.hitsquad.com/smm/search/">search page</a>.

: I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF I CAN RECORD MY OLD CASSETTE TAPES ON TO CD AND IF SO HOW

Wot up, mon? Stop spending your green on green. buy the forge to avoid the forgery. smokin'...

: Can someone give me an activation code for soundforge 5.0?
: Thanks.

The short answer: get CDWave

The long answer:

To burn CD tracks, you need to export your Cubasis
song/arrangement to a WAVE (.WAV) file. You can do
this by pressing the button next to the master faders
in the mix window, or you can select the option from
the File menu. I like using the file menu command,
because I can type easier than using a mouse.

In the export command, all you do is name the output
file, and wait for Cubasis to render it. It can take
a while, depending on how long your song is.

Before you do this, be sure to turn off any other
programs running in the background, and don't connect
or disconnect any USB devices. It also helps to purge
the RAM first, if you have a RAM purging program such
as MemMax.EXE (Memory Max: freeware). This is simply
because audio rendering with lots of tracks and plug-ins
requires intense computing power, and it can be kept
stable if you keep the system still and simple.

After rendering is done, you can quit Cubasis and
load the .WAV file into an editor such as CDWAVE.EXE
(CD Wave: freeware) or WaveLab Lite. There you can
cut any extra space at the beginning or end. I like to
render my songs with blank space at the beginning so
that any soundcard, MIDI, or VST processing delays
don't make me miss the beginning of the song. I then
truncate the lead silence in WaveLab Lite, and save the
file.

Once you song .WAV file is edited to your liking,
all you need to do is add it to your CD-Burning list
in Master Unit or Easy CD Creator, or Exact Audio Copy (freeware).
Master Unit works ok, and comes with Cubasis VST, but I
like Exact Audio Copy better. Easy CD Creator is nice
for when I want to make CD+Extra Disks, but I don't like
how it always turns on CD/CD-ROM Autoplaying. (This is
a drag since some CD-ROMS run troublesome programs; I don't
want them to automatically run!!)

Anyhow, the thing to keep in mind, is that your
CD-R program determines track splits, not your
multitracking software (Cubasis). Some CD-R
programs let you add extra track splits, but most
just rely upon the natural separation of AIFF and WAVE
files.

If you would like to split a .WAV file before burning
a disk, then you can use the freeware CDWave. If you need to join
.WAV files, then you can use AddaWav (also freeware). If you can't
find AddaWav, use WavGlue (freeware), but be sure to only use
files of the same sample rate and bit resolution.

AnalogX.com has a freeware utility called AutoTune
which can be used to set tons of files to the same
bit resolution and sampling rate at once. It is a
little trickier with 24bit files, but it does work
wonders with 16bit files and can also be used to
match tunings nicely.

Good luck.

p.s.- you could use a program such as SoundForge
to place separation markers into your WAVE files
if you don't want permanent separators, but need
to note sections. The markers aren't saved on a
burnt CD, but you can export the markers as a
text file. This is rather handy if you need to
use the same divisions on different files. CDWave
also can do this, but with the added ability to
split the file at the marker points!

Look up Notation programs

That's a nice Audio card...

The best thing to do is to plug your piano (audio) into your 12 channel mixer, or for the most direct and best sound (although it will use up all your cards inputs), plug it straight into the card.

Next, get a midi lead and connect it from the piano to the card.

Assuming you have set up the sequencer you are using (??) to run the midi on the Mia (it does have midi doesn't it?) then you should be able to arm an Audio Track and a Midi Track in the sequencer. The Audio Track is so you can listen to the piano OR signal from the mix and the Midi Track is obviously for the keyboards midi information.

You could record the midi and audio at the same time depending on the sequencer.. This is the best way around the issue in my opinion..

Good Luck

SteveR

It sounds as if you need to make up your mind about
whether you need to save files on disk, or just playable
audio. Most likely, you don't want to bother using CD RW
disks at all. They are less reliable, and more expensive.

I suggest that you choose a program such as
Easy CD Creator (or better) and learn to make CD+Extra
CD-R disks. These disks play audio in regular CD players,
but also show up as CD-ROM disks in a computer. The nice thing
about this, is that you can put mp3's into the data part. Or, you
can save your song info or pictures or copyright stuff in the data
part too. You could conceivably do this on a CD-RW disk, but then
you couldn't play the songs on most CD players and probably all DVD players.

If you don't need to save any playable audio, but need to back up
your hard drive to a permanent format, then create a CD-ROM disk on
a CD-R disk.

If the backup must be modifiable, then you really should
be using ZIP drive instead. These are still the most cost effective tools
for re-writable backups. 100MB and 250MB ZIP disks are available, and
the 250MB drives can read the 100MB disks too. CD-R disks can SAFELY
hold about 650MB of data, but are more vulnerable to scratches and smudges. Never burn
data disks at high speeds; the data is would be more likely to be corrupted.
ZIP disks are just fancy diskettes, so they should be scanned for errors just
like hard drives. They are particularly vulnerable to dust, and because they
have moving rubbing parts, every use wears them down with friction. So you see,
there are issues for each format.

CD RW disks can be read by any drive that can read CD RW disks.
There are some standalone hardware CD players and recorders that
can read Audio CD RW disks, and there are some computer drives that
can read Data CD RW disks. Perhaps some computer drives can read
CD RW Audio disks too, but this is rarer.

CD RW is a designed mostly for data storage.
CD R is designed mostly for audio storage.

Some CD R disks are designed specifically for
consumer audio, and tend to be a bit more expensive.
However, this is basically a trick to make you spend
more money. A decent, reasonable CD recorder will be
able to record on cheap disks whether they are consumer
or professional, or for computers or for audio. Again,
some of these can deal with CD RW, and some can't.

In general, CD RW is considered a much less stable
medium, because it is error prone. Personally, I
think the disks are also physically more likely
to flake off, even though the plastic is sometimes
stronger.

You might also be confused about a special CD RW format
which is strictly a data format. It uses "packets", of
data, and is designed to allow using CD RW disks as
hard drives. This format is only for data, and once
the disk is used this way, the only way to convert the
data files is to copy them onto a hard drive, erase the
CD RW disk entirely, turn off data packeting, and copy
the files back onto the CD RW disk as a CD-ROM disk.

: im not sure who i am talking to but i just got a new computer with a cd burner on it i would like to know how to burn songs and what websites i go to, to do so...please help...thank you very much ......Sarah
im not sure but i have heard that you have to go on to a web site but I not sure what is so if you can be every kind to tell me thanks...So please help to go to the rite web page... Thank you Gina!!

Sarah,

Incase your new computer has Windows XP: here are some hints -

Windows XP's integrated CD burner is powered by the Roxio engine but lacks the familiar Easy CD Creator interface. There is no CD Burner icon on the desktop or in the start menu. So where is this promised CD burner? There are two answers, depending on if you want to burn audio or data CD's.

To burn data CDs

Open a folder. Look at the folder options on the left of your screen. You should see an option to Copy All Items to CD or Copy to CD, depending on your folder view. You can also right-click a file or folder and choose Send To and then CD drive. I appreciate that XP has made it as easy to drop files to a CD as it is a Zip disk. It does not copy the files immediately. Instead, it places them into a repository and waits for further instruction on when and where to burn the CD. Now, place a blank CD into your CD drive or navigate to your CD drive in My Computer, and choose to write the files to a CD.

To burn music CDs

The Windows Media Player was always a monstrosity, and now it now includes a new function -- CD burning. Select a song in your My Documents folder, and choose Copy to Audio CD from the folder options on the left. Surprise! Up pops the Windows Media Player, waiting for you to choose Copy to CD. Hit the record button, and have a good time.

Limitations of the incorporated CD burner

You cannot create bootable CDs with the Windows XP CD burner, nor can you create a CD from an image (like a .iso file). If you want this functionality, you need to install your favorite CD burning software. Don't try to install Easy CD Creator 5 just yet -- Windows XP won't let you.

Roxio will have XP patches available on their website soon, but only for their latest edition of CD creator. Roxio will not support Easy CD Creator 3.X and 4.X for Windows XP, and the user will be required to purchase the upgrade to Easy CD Creator 5 Platinum.

Windows XP does not have a CD burning interface, but it has CD burning artfully integrated into the operating system. However, third-party CD burning software is still necessary for those who want to burn more than the occasional audio CD.

: im not sure who i am talking to but i just got a new computer with a cd burner on it i would like to know how to burn songs and what websites i go to, to do so...please help...thank you very much ......Sarah

If your computer is new, there should be some documentation about CD burning with it. The chances are, you were given the software to burn CD's. If you weren't, then contact the shop you bought the computer from and demand some.

The CD burning software manual should explain how to burn various types of CD's.. There is no easy way for people that don't know your type of computer, your type of CD burner and the software bundle you should have received with your machine..

SteveR

Before you do anything, go into your options window
and set all file types to visible (This is near the file types window).

Now go into DOS mode, and type:

ATTRIB -r -h -s -a C:\*.* /S
(or maybe ATTRIB C:\*.* -r -h -s -a /S )
This will make all hidden files visible.
If it won't let you do it, then you need to right-click on the
DOSPROMPT icon in the start menu, and choose properties. Find the
settings window which talks about DOS modes. Change it so that it
does NOT warn before going into DOS mode, and also set it so that
DOS programs are NOT aware of Windows programs. If you change one or
both of these settings, then you ought to be able to go into DOS
mode and run ATTRIB without getting the "abort, retry, fail" bullshit.
If you still get it though, try restarting in DOS mode and then trying
the ATTRIB commands.

Once the ATTRIB command starts, it takes a very very long time to finish.
Go get something to eat and listen to your stereo for a while and
read a magazine or a book. On my 20GB drive it takes about 10-15 minutes.
This command works on all files on your C: drive.
Unfortunately, windows hides and protects files each
time it starts up. This is one reason that mac people
don't like PC's.

Stop using the media player. It has been proven to be
an internet security hole. Your computer can be
instantly hacked if you haven't installed the bug
fix for the media player. Really, you should avoid
using any microsoft products for any Internet use.
WinAmp is probably the next best thing until you
find a safer alternative freeware program or group
of programs.

This is not easy to do! This alone is a good reason
why you shouldn't use the media player (or any microsoft
product).

I have been using microsoft products long enough to
realize that every single one of their programs creates
a history list somewhere. This is really bad programming,
and very impolite policy. It's also a security issue.

This is another reason why you should distrust Micro$soft.

One place to search for history files is in the WINDOWS folder.
This system folder contains many .INI files. At least 2 of them
are likely to correspond to your media player's history.
I seem to recall the existence of a file named something
like CDPLAYER.INI or something-MEDIA-something or something-LIB-something
or something-LIBR-something or something-PLYR-something. I wish I could remember.

Well, you could search for "*MEDIA*", "*LIB*", etc.
DOS commands use "*" for unspecified results, but
the Find command can use the "*" wildcard as well.

Find: *.EXE finds applications, and *.INI finds
initialization files. you can also type things like
*audio*.* to find anything with "audio" in the name.
The "*" means [any number of any letters or any numbers].
Similarly "?" means [any letter of any number]. If you can't
remember part of a file name to search for, you could type
VBRUN???.* "VBRUN" is the part you remember, "???" is the
three characters you can't remember, and ".*" shows you any possible endings.
Be aware that some files don't have a "." in their name.

OK. To clear the history, you should first try to do it
from within the media player. Somewhere there is a
window for the media player's "library". When you
find that window, there will be different listings
and categories. The trick is to try to select each listing
and sublisting and delete it using the keyboard delete key.
Be sure to try this on all listings in the "library". There
may also be a menu command to clear the library, but you can't
be sure this will do the trick.

After you scour your media player for all of its command
settings, you will want to consider learning how to
use registry cleaning programs. These are technical programs,
but the registry is where most of you is being tracked
and logged.

IF YOU DON'T LEARN TO PURGE YOUR REGISTRY,
THEN YOU WILL ALWAYS HAVE HIDDEN HISTORY LISTS AROUND.

For starters, read as much as you can about REGEDIT.EXE

This is the oldest and most important registry program, and it
comes with Windows. Even if you have no other registry programs,
this one will enable you to do the most, even if it's hard to do.

To get things started, you should also get
RegVac (Registry Vacuum). This is time-limit shareware,
which teaches alot about the registry and allows it to be
purged a lot too. RegVac can be reused even after it
expires if you remove/reinstall it after repairing and defragmenting
your hard drive.

Another must-have program is InControl. This freeware program
lets you see exactly how programs corrupt your registry and other files.
It also shows you what history entries they create. This is useful if
you'd like to manually destroy the entries.

In fact, if you use RegEdit carefully, you can manually
search for your media player and CD player history lists
and delete them.